To the Border.

We woke up having had a comfortable nights rest and had a full Scottish breakfast.  Although rested for the night the overall level of Richard's fatigue was beginning to add up.  We said goodbye to our hosts, Joe and Mary, at the Eccelfechan Hotel Like old family friends and we vowed to return.  This is an exceptional establishment with hosts to match, and that makes a big difference.

Loaded up, and having released the stand on Richard's bike, we turned South and once again followed the B7076, and it's cycle lane, over the gently undulating landmass that surrounds the Solway Firth.  Richard made good progress, almost as if he was in his stride while Lorraine was having one of those off days where things seem to be harder.  

A few miles before reaching the small settlement of Kirkpatrick Fleming the signed cycle route turned Westwards but we followed the road straight on through the village.  The cycle routes are generally the quietest roads to follow but by default take you on the longest pathway to your intended destination.  As traffic flow was not really that heavy we took the more direct route.  There was no real difference apart from not having a white line painted on the road that would protect your life no matter what.

It didn't take too long before we entered Gretna (AKA Gretna Green) famous for being the first town North of the border that eloping couples could get married without parental consent.  What had once been a small village, with Justice of the peace, has become a tourist based trap.  With about 3 or 4 genuine anvils and an established thriving marriage trade it's probably lost what romantic charms it may have once held.  We stopped at the retail outlet centre, to try and find a memento for Lorraine, before crossing back into England.

Keeping an eye out for the border sign we found a small, discrete post.  I was expecting something slightly larger, possibly more obvious but soon realised that it really depends on what road you cross by and this was a small back road.  We stopped for the obligatory photo's..   :)

Wee sign on the backroad just North of the Border

Lorraine at the border

Richard, pretending everything's OK   (Encephalitis)

All we had to do from hare was quite literally follow the back road in to Carlisle.  Which was fine till we got there.  Following basic directions, as we entered the Kingstown area, we soon had to ask for more directions but the people of Carlisle where genuine and soon we found the cycle track towards the town centre.  Looking at the maps we managed to get to the rail station where we booked some advanced tickets, with the help of the staff, at considerable discount.  Then we obtained inexpensive Accomadation  with an established chain of Travellers Inns while we rest up and await the trains home.

All in all this has been a wonderful experience.  Having managed this much, considering the difficulties in Encephalitis, we wouldn't have missed it for the world.  We have met some wonderful people, had good times, overcome some difficulties, and seen some views to die for.

This is not an end, just a halt between tours really.  We will keep this blog running for each tour we go on in the future so you can share in our experiences as we go.  

This has been the most amazing experience and a great introduction to cycle touring we have learnt a lot. The future is bright the future is bicycle shaped.

 

 

Eccelfechan Via Lockerbie.

After resting the ankle for a few days we were ready to move on.  Having a breakfast before departure, we loaded up the bikes and set course Southbound.  We planned to use the A701 & A7076 as our main route South.  To leave Moffat we followed the main road until we passed under the motorway and found a cycle track that was separated from the main road and, behind a line of trees,  made our progress a delightful experience. 

 Although there was not a lot to see, as we travelled, there was the odd moment of interest.  As we travelled South we could see what appeared to be half of a high bypass turbo fan engine.  As we drew level with this piece of art it transposed into a collection of plates decorated with 'Cycle' pictogram and the name 'Toulouse', a name linked with aviation, but will have to search the internet to find the story behind this one.

Art installation on cycle track by A701.

We soon found the second road we needed and would follow this, in the main, for the rest of the day.  At the same time the cycle track ceased to be.  Fortunately the local authorities seem to be aware of the number of cyclists using this road and have created a lane of between 30 & 36 inches.  this proved to be a reasonably good safe haven as we cycled, no motor vehicle coming close enough to cause concern.

Pit stop for tea, showing lay by and cycle lane alongside road.

All the time the roads rose and fell gently and for once we did not find any gradient that made us dismount and push. There were a few gradients that seemed to go on for ever but we managed them all.  We passed a few other groups of cyclists, some out for club rides and were encouraged by the friendly greetings that passed between us.

Along the way we pulled off into the town of Lockerbie for refreshments.  On a Sunday it seemed as if the whole town was shut but as we pressed further in we soon found a bank and somewhere to grab some sustenance.  This was the Cafe 91, one of the few places open on a Sunday and a favourite stop for travellers.  It bakes it's own bread and cakes daily, and the freshness can be tasted.  This stop comes highly recommended by us.     

  

Cafe 91 in Lockerbie.

Having been refreshed we set of to pay our respects to the victims of Pan Am Flight 103.  On the 21st December 1988 an improvised Explosive Device was smuggled aboard a Pan Am 747.  Due to delays the destruction of the aircraft occurred over the Scottish mainland above the town of Lockerbie resulting in the death of not only flight crew and passengers but also towns people.  The name of Lockerbie will always be synonymous with this disaster, and the 25th anniversary will soon be upon us.  A commemorative gardens for all people was commissioned and can be found alongside the commonwealth graves.  A small building houses an information centre for visitors.  What we found was a memorial garden beautiful in it's simplicity and well maintained.  A moving tribute to all.  We include some photographs for those unable to attend in person.

The plaque at the garden path.

Overall view of memorial garden.

Well tended bedding plants bring colour, and life, to the gardens.

The main dedication to the event.

List of names of all who perished.

A quilt has been dedicated ready for the anniversary.

A guide to the quilt, includes a leaf for everyone on board as well as a pebble for those on the ground.

We departed the gardens and retraced our steps, or pedal strokes, to the road south.  It did not take too long to reach Eccelfechan, a town that does not take itself too seriously for obvious reasons.  As we entered the village we saw the signs for two campsites and at the same time we saw 'The Ecclefechal Hotel'.  No contest, we would see if the hotel had a room for the night before trying the campsites.

Stopping outside the hotel we were greeted by Joe, who had obviously had cyclists in before.  Within minutes we were seated down for coffee, and having small talk before we had even registered.  The community here are full of questions, not because they are nosy but because they are interested in your stories.  The hotel is undergoing renovation and we accepted the apologise for the mess but there was no need.  The room we had been given was the best we have seen.  Ample space, tastefully decorated and a washroom with bags of hot water for showers.  This is a place we will make a note of should we return anytime in the future.

After a 'FechanBurger' (house speciality)  we went for a stroll round the village.  There are quite a few signs around detailing the history and people of the place.  Eccelfechan seems to have had many set backs over the centuries but has managed to come back again, no doubt to the strength of community. And their sense of humour.....

   

The town of Moffat.

Moffat lies in administrative region of Dumfries & Galloway, but the geographical SouthWest corner of the steeply folded valleys of the borders between Scotland and England.  Once on the main road from Gretna to Edinburgh it has now been bypassed by the road network and relies on the passing trade that seeks respite from travel.  For all of this it has created an oasis for the weary traveller and those seeking to know a little more of the region.

Sheep play a prominent part in Moffat

A claim to the UK's thinest hotel, with enough width for a row of rooms and a corridor on each floor.

This disused place of worship is now an apartment block without destroying its facia.

Like many of it's neighbouring towns it has it's own small museum dedicated to it's history and people.  The most prominent of which, from our point of view, was Air Chief Marshall Hugh Dowding.  Born in the village he went on to become leader of the Royal Air Force and held that position through the Second World War.  It is a credit to this town that they have several areas around the town dedicated to his memory.

Dowding house is a retirement home forex servicemen in need of support.  it is away from the main road but close to, allowing respite with ease of access for it's residents.

The Railway station handled stock as well as passengers until the 1960's, since when it has been turned into a gardens with a memorial to Hugh Dowding and pilots of the RAF.  But this is not exclusive and generations of children are encouraged to play freely within it's bounds.  many of the seats in the park are also dedicated to individual aircrew who were born, lived or died near the village.

Memorial to Hugh Dowding.

Bedding plants, play area and in the distance a boating pond for enjoyment.

This is another small town that is keeping it's head above water when the progress of time since the 1950's could so easily have left it behind to become a lost village.  If you have the time it is well worth spending a day or two here to explore what appears to be a sleepy town has to discover.

 

Over the hills to Moffat

We woke up at a reasonable time, with a fair days journey ahead we were after a good start.  A quick breakfast and then finish packing and break camp.  The tourist information centre had informed us of a recently opened cycle-path between Peebles and Innerleithen started nearby and that would do to ease us into the days cycling.

Breakfast coffee and Pain au Chocolat.

Pushing the bikes up the track to the gate, checked the traffic and turning South, we mounted our steeds and pushed off towards the town centre.  The road doesn't actually go right into the centre but filters the through traffic away.  We just had to get to the small roundabout, turn left and find the second turn on the left for the cycle track.  Well signposted and freshly laid tarmac it was a pleasure to ride.  As predicted it followed to a tunnel, which took us under the main A72, and followed the River Tweed towards Innerleithen.  As you reach Cardrona the track comes to a gravel carpark and crosses into a housing estate, but is well signposted through.  At Innerleithen it enters slightly south of the centre on the B709.  we decided to ask about coffee stops and got directions to a place called 'The nrfibfjhhbf stock cafe'  It was a bit early in the morning for Richard to have an Encephalitis moment so we followed the general info into town looking at all the shops until Richard had his 'Richard Hannay, 39 steps' moment when he saw it.  "Of course, The Whistle stop cafe".

The proprietor and staff greeted us warmly and enquired after our journey.  We explained we were going to Moffat and the seemed really impressed, overly so as we had already done 7 or 8 miles already and only had another 31 or so miles to go.  We sat outside, enjoying Coffee and cake while exchanging greetings with other cycling groups as they passed.  We thanked our hosts, paid our dues and set off back to the B709 to recommence our journey.

Coffee at 'The Whistle Stop Cafe'

All went well as we progressed along the road.  Then there was a somewhat steep gradient, something I was not expecting.  changing down through the gears we carried on and the road levelled for a while.  Every now and then we came across another gradient that required some more effort.  We passed a pair of motorcyclists and joked about swapping vehicles but they had broken down, with help already on the way and nothing we could do, we went on our way strangely still going uphill.

it was shortly afterwards that things got serious, down through the gears, and off and pushing.  This was getting steep, how had we missed this in the planning.  Stopping every so often to take on water we were perspiring freely at this effort.  Every crest of the hill was proving to be a false one, with the real one just up ahead by that next bend.  We must have pushed for nearly ten minutes before we finally found the apex, and the downhill beckoned.  Richard went ahead, no worries.  Lorraine followed but had to stop for an insecure pannier.  That downhill section must have lasted nearly two minutes before Richard slowed looking for Lorraine.  We climbed a small rise before pulling off for a break.  Just as we did two RAF Tornados screamed past at head height along the valley on a training flight.  Impressive sight most times but when your almost looking down on them it's something else to see.

Tea break after that unexpected climb.

Scottish Borders territory

Really doesn't show how steep/deep these valleys are.     

we followed the road as it gently descended this hill towards the junction with the A708, our main route to Moffat.  A big surprise when we got there was to see a chalk board for the LEL.  This is an audax event for cyclist which runs from London to Edinburgh and back, taking in checkpoints along the way.

LEL check point board, Junction of A708 & B709.

Hidden in plain sight ~ An Cold War Observation Post.

We turned South-West and followed the gently rising and falling road, looking out for St.Mary's loch our second visual marker point on the route.  It did not take too long for it to come into view but it did feel a bit like a 'finally' moment.

The Northern edge of St.Mary's Loch hauls into view. 

 The next visual was a cafe, Not sure if it was still open we carried on.  Before we got there we did see an old AA phone booth, as well as signs for a comfort break so hurried on after a quick photo.  The comfort break was at the 'Glen Cafe' which is a regular as well as must call in place for travellers on this route.

The old phone booth, not many like that left.

Pulling up outside the cafe we made an amusing site in the car park.  On one side were 5 or 6 gleaming motorcycles on the other were several cars and in the middle were two small bicycles, a little dirty, dusty and well laden.  We chatted a while with the other riders and they were very polite,  we believed because of the hill we had climbed.  Once people had heard our intent there seemed to be a quiet respect for us, which we gave back as fellow travellers on the road.  A small information board indicated we had climbed to over 1600 feet coming from Innerleithen.

We bade our farewells and continued Southwards. The road gently undulating but un-noticeably  climbing at that stage.  Two of the motorcyclists passed us a few miles on, giving us a toot and a wave and we returned the greeting.  The head wind hit us hard, seemingly from nowhere.  we got off and pushed before we became exhausted.  An Australian we had spoken to at the cafe asked if we were OK and we just confirmed the headwind.  As soon as the road turned we were out off the wind, remounted and pedalled on.  It didn't take too long before the gradient became serious again, seemingly forever upwards.  Off and pushing again Richard considered what was happening.  During planning the road appeared to follow two rivers at the bottom of steep valley sides but where the contours of the sides were so close together it was easy to miss them sneaking across the road indicating not a flattish road but a steep gradient.  Just before we reached the top a sign indicating 'Dumfries & Galloway appeared, but we were too far gone to realise and thought it was a B&B advertising sign.  

Then we created the top and were stunned by the view.  It was like being a giant straddling a valley looking down.  The road descended for miles, I have no idea how high we were but we could not see the end of the descent.  This was too good to miss, this one we had earned, this was a descent that could take minutes in double figures.  But with the flimsy crash barriers down one side and the road weaving against the steep valley side we daren't let the bikes have their heads.  Well, not fully.  Off we went, judiciously using the brakes to hold the descent in check, laughing at the stunned faces of people in cars and coaches that had struggled up their side to see two people on fully laden tourers cycling the hills.  It was a little time before we realised we needed to take some photos for keepsake.

Steps placed to control erosion of soil beneath the road.

Grey Mare's Tail waterfall

When we finally reached the bottom we were ecstatic. It had been hard work up but what a ride down.  The road levelled out and we followed the Moffat dale, looking forward to arriving in town.  And we followed and followed.  Where was this place,  there were no apparent clues, how much further.  We stopped for a break on the side of the road, brewing up as more logging trucks passed.  Off we set again before spotting a building called 'Moffat Water Hall'.  There are two ways to read that, and we read it wrong, thinking we were close.  It was another 10 minutes or so it seemed before we found our first sign.  Moffat 1 1/4 miles, thank you for that.  Short lived, another hill before you get to the town.

Entering the town we made our way to what was the tourist information office only to find it no longer existed.  Finding an 'Info point' meant loads of leaflets in a shopping mall but little else, so asking a shop assistant we found out hotels are expensive but the B&B's are reasonable and in one area of town.  Taking a street map we started pedalling up towards the area, checking each house as we went.  At the top end of the high street Richard saw a B&B not displaying a 'No Vacancy" sign, parked the bike and rang the doorbell.  A room was available at a reasonable price.  being caring they explained what they had but in our state, dusty, sticky, feeling gritty we just wanted in.  Off loading the bikes, a quick shower, and then back to the high street for dinner.

We considered what we had done, the respect we had been given by others, and now knew why.  Had we known what lay ahead there was a good chance we would not have tried, but having done it we have a certain amount of pride in what we achieved.  Bodies satisfied and growing weary from our exertions this day we retired to bed early.  Richard slept the sleep of a thousand miles while Lorraine spent half the night trying to stop him snoring.  

As of today Richard has woken up with a painful swollen ankle we are not sure why, tomorrow we will leave here and head for a strangely named place Ecclefechan and see how the ankle holds up. Hard to believe we have been on the road for 3 weeks and having the best time ever. 

 

  

The town of Peebles.

The small town of Peebles nestles in the hills of the Scottish Borders.  It lies on the confluence of the Eddleston Water and the River Tweed.  This town could have so easily been lost in the progress of the modern world but has fought back to retain it's character and charm of the last two centuries while making it's own way forward.

The architecture has been maintained as best as possible, other than the later half of the 20th century where local authority buildings were slab built, and newer constructions have been erected so thatthe edifices   blend into the old.  Even new housing has incorporated the towers and turret looks of older buildings.  Many of the grander looking buildings are housing museums and other places to discover more.

There are many small, but light, passages which can take the curious on a journey of discovery.  Many opening onto courtyards or through to the grassy banks of the rivers.  Steeped in history, there is much to uncover in this town from it's people to it's heritage that I will have to come back for a vacation to find out more.

Main church at the top of the high street.

The hotel that has been in business for several 100 years.

One of the older buildings of a former resident is now a museum.

Through the archway is a quadrangle.

Within the quadrangle is a memorial to fallen servicemen from the region.

Closer detail of the mosaic cross within the memorial.

Small garden & quiet area in the quadrangle. 

Small garden which once housed the original market cross, before it was returned to the high street.

 

 

The stoney road to Peebles

We loaded up and said our good byes to mum and set out on what should have been a straight forward hop to Peebles in the Scottish Borders.  The route was not the one we had originally planned, crossing the Moorfoot hills but a simple one in the same basic direction.  We had been warned about a six exit roundabout but assured the roads would be ok.

Following the Firth inland for several hundred yards we turned South and started the first climb, not steep or too long.  We found the first of the main roads we needed to follow and headed out in good spirits.  The traffic was light to start and fairly well behaved.  The dreaded roundabout was in fact well behaved, with six roads in and a small diameter all vehicles had to slow right down making it easy to negotiate on bicycles.  It was slightly later, at a normal four road roundabout that we had problems judging as cars came in at higher speeds.  The traffic levels also increased and less clearance was given to us as everyone had their own agenda.

By the time we made Dalkieth we took a break.  stopping in the town centre we had coffee and reviewed the situation.  The traffic had brought us close to a psychological edge.  We had to regroup our thoughts and decide whether to continue in the face of what we were experiencing.  We hummed and erred till we girded our loins and decided to press on.

Along the main A6094 road we turned right in the direction of Rosewell, following the pavement, when we came across a break in the hedge as the pavement ended.  There was a track running behind the hedge in the general direction we were headed.  stopping to ask some walkers they informed us it was part of a new track that would get us to Penicuik off road, then we just had to turn left and follow the next road to Peebles.  Checking the map showed no sign of this track but we figured it would probably do us good to get away from the traffic.

What we found was a delight, an old railway track from decades ago brought back to life for non motorised use.  Just follow the track, going slightly downhill most of the way.  Under a few bridges and within 10 or so miles we would get to our next waypoint.

The old rail trackbed, now a motor free pathway.

As we progressed, feeling good we chanced upon an old rail station platform.  At some time someone had placed a picnic bench on the platform for whatever reason and we took advantage for a lunch break.

The old rail platform.

Lunch break at the station.

We had a meal of chicken breast, crackers, cheeses and bit and pieces while having a good look around.  The piece that really got Richard's admiration was just opposite the platform, not really hidden but there for those who look.  Half covered by nature was a construction of concrete that bore the mane of the original station.  Marked in white stone, this would have been cared for by the station master and his workmen, in the late 19th early 20th century with pride.  Feeling with finger tips the old stone gave up it's secret.  This was 'Rosslyn Castle'.

Hidden in plain sight 'ROSSLYN CASTLE'.

We continued down the track as it clung to the hillside of the Esk valley.  Almost a free ride as we had to pedal little on the gentle incline, allowing more time to look around and take photos.

looking over the valley from the track.

The longest of the tunnels is about 500 feet long. ~Guesstimate.

When we got to Penicuik the route doesn't really take you into town but as we had already eaten we decided to continue to Peebles in the Scottish boarders.  Well we had an almost free ride into town, now we were going to have to pay for it.  it may not have been a 1 in 5 hill but it went on forever.  Down the gears we went, slowly but surely until we ran out and then had to get off and push for what seemed forever.  Even with no headwind we were paying by climbing back out of the valley.

The climb out of Penicuik (yes, that is the road still climbing in front of the tree line)

We finally reached a more level part and remounted the bikes to join the road to Peebles.  We found a small trailer in a layby selling tea and stopped for a break.  While chatting to the lady serving we were impressed by the price of meals on offer, many of which were good value.

'Carol's Snacks. Located on the A703, South of Leadburn.

The next part of the journey followed the road down along the Eddiston Water, although not all downhill it would have been a great run were it not for some of the motorists.  many of the larger trucks would give us a toot to let us know they were passing and give wide clearance, but some smaller vehicles cut in close, too close on occasions unsettling Lorraine.

Finally we approached the town of Peebles, saw the camp sign but decided to continue further.  it was a blessing in disguise for the next site was within walking distance of the town centre and a great site to stay.  We booked into Crossburn for the night, set up camp and walked into town for supplies.  What we found is a wonderful town so decided to stay for an extra day to explore.

camping at Crossburn

Jump to Edinburgh.

In the words of Gunnery Sgt Highway  "You improvise, Adapt and overcome"

And so we did.......

We have a choice, stay in Inverness and wait till the bikes can get booked in for maintenance, with inherent costs of accommodation or get booked onto a train to Prestonpans, just East of Edinburgh where we can stay with mother and have a greater choice of workshops.  This decision though is still reliant on others whichever way we turn.

We spoke to the B&B host who assured us another nights stay and headed for the rail station to check out reservation possibilities.  Yes, they could get all booked on the mid morning train next day.  Ok I was going to miss the Drumachter Pass over the Cairngorm mountain range, but the recent news as to it's condition, from broken road surface to non existent and overgrown by scrub in places help make the final plans for that stage.  Take the train to Edinburgh and continue from there as soon as possible.  We can attack the high pass on another tour.

We have been here a few days. The bike was fixed the day after arrival by ACE BIKES in Mussleburgh, no appointment necessary. It was an absolute pleasure to watch the young man go about his business                           with the skill, knowledge and confidence of a surgeon working in A&E.  We had a quick look at the festival, but it was swamped with people and manic.

Tomorrow we shall move on as we head South again.  Rested, Refuelled and refreshed.  It's not been the easiest start to our tour but it hasn't dampened our spirits and we ride again.  :D