The Falls of Shin & The Dornoch Firth.

After a fitful nights sleep the dawn broke clear.  No mist and the Sun was rising with rain not forecast till much later in the day.  Lorraine was up first and woke Richard for a cup of tea around 6 O'Clock.  Breakfast was eaten and we set about breaking camp.  Everything went well and we pushed the bikes up to the camp gates for our getaway, and it was up.  

Out the gates, down to the main road and turn left over the bridge to follow the Southern side of the River Shin down to the sea.  So we were somewhat surprised to find ourselves going up hill.  It didn't take long to realise that while the water will always run downhill the road has to follow the curve of the gorge.    The main road direction sign invited us to Ullapool, on the Western coast, so we turned left towards The Falls of shin.

The fragrance of summer flowers filled our nostrils and was infilled with the light aroma of Scots Pine.  The Sun was getting quite strong, where it broke through the flora and the forward progress we made downhill cooled the skin.  It was a good day for a ride.

Although we could hear the river it was often out of sight but other things reminded you it was there such as a pedestrian suspension bridge seemingly in the middle of nowhere.

A little further along the river meandered towards us so we stopped to take a look.  It was a small but stunning sight, watching the river babble on down, and we couldn't help but wonder how many people missed this scene purely because they were driving a motor vehicle.  This called for a photo break.

Feeling privileged to have seen this we set off with renewed vigour.  We cycled along enjoying this back road to ourselves for nearly the whole journey to the Falls.  We were aware that the visitor centre at the Shin had a fire some time ago, and may not be operating, but we had flasks of hot water and provisions should it be needed.

The road suddenly entered a large car parking area, with obvious signs of organisation, but had an almost abandoned air about it.  No centre or cafe was standing.  We cycled to the Southern end while trying to work out where to secure the bikes.  In the end we asked someone who had parked their campervan if he would be able to watch them for a short time while e went to see the falls.  We set of down the track, seemingly on our own, trying to find our way.  It was not a big problem as this was the correct track and only led to the three viewing platforms for the Falls.  

While the Falls of Shin are not the size of Niagara they are something worth seeing.  This is especially so between June and September as they provide a chance to see Salmon jumping up the levels to reach their breeding ground.  We shot some video and Lorraine managed to film a Salmon leaping. (if I figure out how to get it into the blog I'll post them at the end...)

The upper levels of the Falls.

The main fall, this is the best place to view Salmon Leaping.

The lower reaches of the Falls. Spotting Salmon here allows you time to get ready for the main event.

lorraine on the main viewing platform.

he irresistible force of water is slowly carving through the rock face and will eventually leave a stack of rock standing in the river.

Afterwards we went to retrieve our bikes and brew a cup of tea.  The people in the campervan offered to make one for us and we gratefully accepted.  They also provided us with toast made especially for us, so we could not refuse.  We talked about the area and played with their dog for a while before bidding farewell and heading off downstream.

We reached the next road junction which was turn left for Invershin and the Bonar bridge, or right for Ullapool (I think the place was trying to call me).  As we turned left over the river I noticed the old bridge, stone work covered in weeds, almost hidden in plain sight.  An immediate right turn over the bridge and down towards the next crossing.  A few more vehicles this time as it was the main road up towards Lairg.  About half way down a vehicle sounded it's horn and it took a few seconds to realise it was the campervan couple, we waved as best we could with a wobble.  As we carried on we soon drew opposite 'Carbisdale castle', a great photo opportunity.

Carbisdale castle

On the approach to the Bonar bridge we could see the cafe sign painted on the building directly in front of us.  cake & coffee we thought only to find it closed.  So we sat outside 'The Bridge inn' for tea & buscuits before crossing the bridge and the start of The Dornoch Firth.

Bonar Bridge, where the River Shin enters the Dornoch Firth.

As we continued along the coastal road we found ourselves climbing and descending along the way.  We were aware of people who had cycled before us taking a short cut towards Alness & Dingwall only to find themselves trying to climb a 1000 foot hill so we stuck firmly to the the edge. As we drew nearer to Tain we saw a cluster of street lights but didn't realise it's significance at first.  We had stopped next to a campsite and decided to see if there was room here.  Not only was there room, but we were the only campers to call in that day.  we checked if we could charge phones, not that we were getting much in signals, and it was not a problem.  We were allowed to pitch up next to the toilet block, not an official pitch, if we were clear of the mobile-homes on site.  Tis was ideal, we paid our dues, left the mobile with the office for charging and made our way into Tain for supplies.

Richard figured out that Tain was a mile and half on the map, the site warden reckoned about 2 miles, and the road sign beyond the roundabout lights said 3.  OK so we were walking in, it would give us a chance to inspect the road we were taking in the morning.  there was no cycle path but the carriage way edge marking would give us between 12 and 24 inches of unofficial space beside the main traffic flow.  it was a long walk with the Sun beating down.  Working our way into the town and finding a supermarket with a cafe was easy but we knew we would get a taxi back as the weather was closing in again, then the penny dropped, the phones were at the campsite.  We asked at the shop for a taxi cab number but not much help.  We tried the rail station as taxis can be found there, but the train timetable was not regular.  At that point we went to another supermarket that often has phones on contract with certain providers and managed to get a ride back to the camp.

As I looked back towards the direction we had cycled from we could see the weather closing in.

We had dinner at 'The Ferrybridge Inn', a real comfort meal of Mince and potato, and snuggled down for the night.

  

 

Lairg, Crossroads of the Highlands.

The roads into Lairg are gentle undulating.  They are ascending or descending depending on which direction one is travelling and without a contour covered map it can be difficult to perceive which way your going vertically.  The roads are 2 lane and mostly quiet but for all that some vehicles seem to pass closer than before, though that could just be people transiting the area.  There are a lot more cyclists o be seen in and around this area.  

We followed along the Loch Shin, upon which the village sits looking for the sign for the camp site.  Richard spied it and confirmed 200 yards up the hill.  200 hundred yards later and a little puzzled we stopped at the post office to seek directions, we were on the right road it was just another 100 yards to go.  That's what happens when your brain reads what it wants to see and not whats there.

We pulled into the campsite by mid afternoon and had the tent up quickly. This site has an abundance of wildlife for all to see.  There is constant activity from the flock of Swifts darting back and forth, the field next door fairly simmers with cabbage white butterflies, and once or twice a day a Bird of prey can be seen over the ridge.  First time I was not ready with the camera.

We then did an exploration  of the site.  Small and compact but without feeling cramped.  We decided to eat at the restaurant that night and found the food to be good.  Like most places up this far a lot of eating houses source their food from local farms, butchers and shops, giving the food a distinctive flavour.  It does mean the food is cooked to order and you just have to be patient but the wait is worth it.  Later investigation soon uncovered the popularity of this restaurant, The camp shop doing little in the way of food and the local shops between 300 & 600 yards away, people are not prepared to carry shopping up the hill.   

The following day broke with a light mist that the sun soon broke through.  At one point Richard saw what can only be described as a albino rainbow.  We took a picture, hope the event comes across.

 We set off to find out about the area.  the first port of call was to visit the 'Ferrycroft' centre.  This acts as a tourist information centre for visitors and is well worth the visit.  Giving account of the area since Mesolithic times, when people had first been recorded in the area right up to the present day.  They have laid out guided walks to visit the many cairns and other structures on the Ord. 

Loch Shin itself is over 21 miles in length, which makes it one of the longest lakes in Western Europe.  This was split into the upper & lower Shin when a hydroelectric plant was built.  This structure, however does not contain the grace of previous Victorian like facades but is very utilitarian, the kind of thing one might have expected from 1950's Soviet buildings.  It comes as quite a shock as it jars with the landscape.

Along the village road, for those that look, is the memorial to the war dead.  This monument takes pride of place, having a space carved out of the hillside, along with steps.  It is in the form of a broken column draped with a cloth to represent the broken lifeline of servicemen.  There for those who know and those who see and is in complete contrast to the damming structure in the Loch.

As you progress along the Loch shore line, around Lairg you can find 'The Pier cafe', another gem serving  local produce and worth the stop.  Indeed many travellers do take the opportunity here.  Although for pier read 'very short concrete jetty'...

Sunday was planned as a domestic day, to get laundry and bike maintenance done.  It didn't take long for the rain to start, sometimes heavy, sometimes light but it seemed to be there all the time.  But to much joy not only was the bird of prey back but came with it's mate.  Wheeling and playing across the ridge line.  So here's an obligatory shot of 2 black spots on sky background.

Culinary skill level: Reheat canned food. (eat your heart out...) 

Our progress through Scotland is very slow but we would not have it any other way, there is so much to see and experience and we don't want to miss any of it.

The Remote Highlands.

Finally found a WiFi we can use.

Today marks our final day on the Northern coast of Scotland.

On Tuesday we went to explore to the West of Thurso.  Now you would have thought we learnt our lesson about following the quiet routes but no, we decided to follow the route out of Thurso.  Surprisingly, and to our benefit this time the route was not only quiet but most of the gradients were reasonable.  As Thurso is a river town the only way out is to climb.  Unlike Mondays this stretch of the road is two lane and most vehicles gave ample clearence as we built up a glow.

We passed the savage sheep of the highlands, well penned in their fields, and a few cattle.  Unfortunately we were enjoying our selves too much to think of getting the camera out early.

We made our way along passing a few houses with something nagging the brain. it then dawned that apart from farms there were very few houses with any sign of habitation about them and we considered this as we progressed.

Along the way richard was aware of a visual marker that he was anticipating to appear from behind one of the many ridges that were everywhere.  This was the Dounreay neuclear power plant that was running in 1957 but now in the process of being decommissioned.  It took a while but came into sight at about ten miles.  Time for camera.

As we joined the main road and continued westwards through the villiage of Reay, looking for a coffee stop but to no avail.  There is a general store but not much else.  Further along we called a halt, and not before time, for our own brew.  While there we met a man called Derek who was walking along Britain for charity.  We had a short chat and signed his book, along with where we met him.  Possible to act as proof of his location.  After A climb up a fairly steep gradient we took stock of our position and the weather and made back along the main coast road.  This proved to have some interesting gradients, as well as one seeming never ending hill where every time we reached the peak we could see the true peak several hundred yards ahead.  Time for more tea and supplies.  We got back to Thurso and found accomaadation but lost all signals, both 3G & WiFi !

The following day we decided to explore our host town.  Taking in the local museum, and walking along the cliff top, and down to the sea edge where possible.  The main geology around here is called Caithness paving, a sedimentary rock laid down in the Devonian period (a bit before Jurrasic park).  With the folds in the Earth it lays at a slight angle and is of such strength it is used for many things, even being exported across the world.  The resurgence in it's use has been welcomed as a small but helpful part in employment.

Also of note was just how clean and clear the seawater appeared to be even to a depth of 3 feet.

Much use has been made locally of this stone and even memorial benches are dotted along the cliff top for weary feet.

Today we took a visit to Wick.  This is the other major town 'up North' but lying on the Eastern coast below John O'Groats.  This is a more visited town, as it lies at the end of the rail line and contains an international airfield.  Surprisingly then it seems smaller to walk around.  We found a local town museum that explained a lot about this place.  Most of it's wealth had been created on the herring fleets that would land fish during the good times but like most other fishing towns on the East coast it went into decline when the Herrings became harder to find.  Only a few boats now operate and that for crabbing scallops.  The authorities have tried to keep up with this by turning the harbour into something of a marina to attract the wealthier clients to town.

Tomorrow we'll head South towards Loch Shin and the Dornoch Firth area where, hopefully, there will be the kind of civilisation that has signals...

To sum up our time here  in the most Northerly part of Britain.  Where you can experience all four seasons in the space of a couple of hours, we found the most amazing scenery from desolate and remote to jaw droppingly beautiful.

The people here  welcome you like old friends and nothing is to much trouble, most of this area depends heavily on tourisim to make a living. It seems there are many elderly quite wealthy folks here along side a generation with young families that struggle to find employment, no money to get on or get out and appear at a standstill. What future for the young children will be here I do not know, how many of them will leave for college and university never to return is sad indeed.

I hope that some other industry can come to this area to reinvigorate the working population and give them some hope for the future.

A truly magical place to visit but great empathy for the population who live here all year round struggling to make a living once the tourist has left at the end of the season.

 

 

John O'Groats

There are two things I need to explain to non cycle tourers first.

1) There are just two kinds of wind, my friends, The wind against you and the wind you don't notice.

2) There are quiet roads and there are flat roads, but there are no quiet flat roads in the UK.

We decided to visit the iconic location at John O'Groats as it was a mere 20 odd miles east along the coast.  John O'Groats fame comes from being one of the two furthest locations you can get to by road in the UK.  The other is Lands End on the South West coast some 860 odd miles by the shortest route. This has become an iconic journey for many people, and while not the longest in the world has it's place in the nations psych.

It has also been described as 'Not the most scenic spot in Britain', a statement that in itself was described as 'Classic British understatement'  :)

When we saw the weather forecast we were sure the wind was for 7 mph easterly, not  a problem.  When we left, into wind it felt more like 17 mph.  We made our way forward with some determination, following the approved quiet route.  This almost turned out to be our undoing. 

We crossed the river Thurso and turned left to connect with the route.  As soon as we took the first right turn we were into wind with a long hill in front of us.  Struggle as we might we slowly worked our way down to the lowest gears but to no avail.  The hill in front just kept on rising.  Within a mile of leaving we were already of the bikes and pushing up the rest of the hill, but hoping for a nice bit of downhill coasting.  This route though was never going to give it up and as we went on it seemed to be one hill after another complete with a never ending headwind.  

On the way we pulled off for a quick break in Castletown, down at the harbour.  There is something of a resurgence in attracting tourists to the area and many boards with information are placed around the small harbour.  Over the North side of the bay can be seen Dunnet head which is the true most Northern piece of the British mainland

After a stop for tea & banana we were soon back into the fight.  It was 18 miles before we had the first glimmer of hope, not a flat plain in front of us but an island just of the coast to our left.  This we recognised as the Island of Stroma, and we started scanning across to the coast looking for our target.    We saw a likely settlement but when we got there we realised we had miss-identified it and had another 2 miles to go.

(Isles of Stoma)

By the time we arrived at John O'Groats we felt very fractured and took time out to chill.  It had taken considerably more energy and we had only managed some 5 mph, having taken 4 hours to complete that leg.

We collected our thoughts and settled for some cake and refreshments before realising we had all but emptied our water bottles.  This we ended up having to pay for as the area is regenerated into another touristville.

 

Having refreshed ourselves we opted to have photos done at the Iconic sign post.  This was not inexpensive but we thought it would be worth it.  Unfortunately the internet does not seem to have found its way to the photo booth so will have to wait for a joint photo by snail mail.  To beat this we took our own of each other; when the offiicial one finally arrives we will share that one.

And the we stood in front of another tourist trap to do our own joint photo..

By now time had marched on and we realised we needed to start back very soon.  It was nearly 3 o'clock and given the morning escapade we still had to get dinner sorted.  Richard was not overly worried as the wind would now be behind us, but elected to use the normal road in the belief this would be more expedient.  That did not mean there would be no hills, just a faster, straighter way back to Thurso.

Although there were still hills to do, and some seemed just as long the gradients were far more gentle and progress was good.  Richard stopped to look at a graveyard from afar, now listed as 'Historic Churches' these seemed to be every few miles.  The graveyard filled with some magnificent art work of memorials.

Most impressive though was the standard of driving.  All but 5 of the many vehicles that past gave over 4 feet clearance, often having the nearside wheel touch the centreline of the road.  The journey back proved to be rapid, taking only three and half hour, when compared to the outward leg.

Quick shower first, feeling grimy, and then cups of tea before heading out for a great meal of lamb steaks & veg.  nom, nom, nom... 

 

Positioning to Thurso

We had read the forums to gather as much info as possible and prepare for any potential pitfalls that may occur in order to be ready.  One of the most common warnings and complaints from cycle tourists was generally in the area of transport by rail especially in the North of Scotland.  There were dire warnings of bicycles not being accepted, grouchy staff with chips on their shoulders and all manner of 'Dragons be here' marked on the maps even by people who had arranged things to the minutest detail.

Our original intent had been to travel on the 'Caledonian sleeper' from London to Inverness.  We decided that to travel overnight with a cabin would allow us to arrive refreshed and ready to go.  Bang on the dot at 12 weeks before we tried to book the advanced tickets.  This is the earliest you can get them, the later you book the more expensive the tickets become and the less that are available.  There was no joy, next day we checked the web again but the tickets were still not available.  So we phoned the company to discover that engineering works were taking place at Edinburgh and tickets for advanced sales had not been released till they had enough information on the disruption being caused.  

Each day we enquired, desperate not to miss the first sale, for about 2 weeks before deciding getting to engrossed in 1 set of plans could lead to greater problems.  So we looked around for alternatives routing.  Having re planned everything we decided to Travel to London Kings Cross station and physically purchase the tickets there so we had them in our hands.  Instead of overnight travel we were going to face an all day transit up the UK.  Accommodation was rebooked and we carried on our preparations still with an eye on the horror stories that emerged every now and then. 

On Saturday morning we got up to the alarm at 04.45, just for a cup of tea before loading the bikes.  Breakfast was to be a Choc au pain & coffee but Richard found himself unable to force this into his mouth, no matter we could pick up food on the way.

We mounted our steeds and headed to Bedford station to get the 06.10 to London.  We chose this train because it left from platform 1, and platform 1 is what your on as soon as you go through the ticket barriers, so no lifts and stairs to negotiate.  Not sure where the cycle carriage would be we wandered along to some seats and waited for the train.  What joy, as the train pulled in to a halt the cycle door was right in front of us.  A quick heaving upwards and we had the bikes on board.  Joy turned into an 'Oh No' moment at the next station as a group of 7 from a local riding club tried to get their road bikes on as well.  Anyone not from the UK will have to understand that most trains here can barley take 4 bikes at a time.  After a bit of shuffling everyone managed to get on and being early in the morning the number of bicycles caused little inconvenience to other travellers.

We arrived at St. Pancras within the hour, and just had to cross the road to Kings Cross for the next train.  We had 85 minutes planned into this break to allow for refreshments and a little leeway to ensure we got the next train at 08.30.  We had a cup of coffee before wandering into the station to await the train announcement.

While train platforms were being put up on the electronic boards ours was not causing some consternation, and not for the only time that day.  15 minutes before departure we finally got the info we needed and with several hundred people made the 100 metre dash for the platform.  Fortunately the guards van was right by the entrance making life easier.  Other times they can be at the far end of the train making life difficult in the time given.

The conductor greeted us enquiring "Edinburgh?" great, they're expecting us, "Are they booked?"  "Yes" we exclaimed flapping the tickets firmly attached to the handle bars.  We were instructed to put them in the bike racks at the far end of the carriage.  If you have not seen these then I will state that they look like everyday street racks with the addition of a U channel at the base to put the wheels in.  Unfortunately there are three racks each side and fitted so close together that only naked road bikes are going to fit.  A quick bit of thinking and just by removing 1 front pannier we got ours into the outside racks.  Great.

We moved up the train and settled in to our seats for the next leg of our journey.  This was going to be 4.45 hours, with numerous stops at major cities en route.  Thankfully the train was comfy, by British standards, and the staff were good.  The refreshment trolly being wheeled out with each new departure.  Just outside Berwick We text mum to say Happy Birthday, and as fate would have it she was in Edinburgh at that time.  Knowing the station was a mess she decided to get there and greet us with as much info as possible in the time.

Edinburgh station turned into a nightmare, the train was late in, the heat was stifling and the crowds & noise made it look like footage from somewhere on the Indian railways.  We greeted mum on the platform and went to get the bikes.  Richard's brain was not coping too well with everything going on and at one point lost track of Lorraine.  Mum had found the info boards but just as before the platform for our train was not giving the right info.  With less than 8 minutes before departure it was announced and it seemed like half the station was moving for the same place.  Steering the bikes towards the one gate that was opened became a nightmare.  Moving along the platform looking for the correct carriage was difficult, but the cycle labelled door appeared on a completely different carriage.  People had already placed bags in there and really didn't want to move them, life was in danger of becoming the stories we had read.  In the end one of the conductors staff got things sorted, mainly I think so they could get the train moving.

This train, the 13.38 to Inverness was crowded.  Anyone without a pre-booked ticket was likely to have trouble, and there were numerous stations en route.  After a few stops the train was split into 2 separate  branches and additional carriages were added to ours.  Finally some relief.  Richard was looking forward to seeing the Cairngorm mountains and the Drumachter  pass but slept to relieve his head of stress.  But did manage to snap a liner in the Firth of Forth while the train crossed the Forth Bridge before doing so.

Inverness station, while less crowded proved to be no less thrilling.  We could see what platform we wanted almost straight away.  We could also see lots of other cyclists and bikes at the station.  We had about 50 minutes to wait while lots of people eyed each other up like the final scene from 'The good, the bad & the ugly' all waiting to see who would go for their bikes first.  Completely oblivious to this we went for a break before re-entering the station and then joined the queue by the platform gate. Well that started it, next thing we knew two bikes were immediately behind us and engaged us in conversation, well we say engaged, more like pumping us with questions.  The gates opened and a surge went through.  It was amusing to watch as we strode purposely up the platform to see others trying to get in front without appearing to run.  The others engaged the conductor in convo pointing out they had reservations, but must have been giving the lady some grief about ours.  She asked if we had tickets/reservations which we confirmed but still they seemed to go on.  At which point the conductor said in no uncertain terms that all the bikes had tickets & all the bikes were going to go on.  It was another long trip from Inverness to Thurso, we left at 17.56 and got in at 21.48,  we picked up a crowd of football supporters on the way but for the most bit it was calm.  The best scenery of the trip was the route up the river valley from Helmsdale, unfortunately Richard was so absorbed, as well as mentally exhausted we got no photo's.

We finally arrived and the sun had still not yet set. (we cheated and took this photo later).

The station was already locked but you just walk out the car park, and the B&B was straight down the road. 

 

 

A good nights sleep and ready to explore.....more to follow later.

 

The Prologue

Following a change in life circumstances we purchased some basic hybrid bicycles to remain mobile as well as get some gentle exercise.  Over a period of time, as well as reading numerous travelogues, we started to become more interested in the cycle touring side of life.

We set of on our first camping trip and toured around the Suffolk area for 2 weeks, based in Felixstowe, getting used to living a basic lifestyle with what you could carry on a bicycle.  This proved to be something of a catalyst in our plans and we started to consider what we could do for a more personal experience, one to remember.  One that could enhance Lorraine's confidence at cycling and try to find the current limits of my reduced faculties without overdoing it.

To this end we needed to find lots of quiet roads & lanes combined with an easy going pace, not so easy to find as I looked around at the frenetic pace of life.  Scouring the web pages of Cycle Touring Club (CTC), Sustrans, Cycle Chat Cycling forums we developed an idea.  We would start at the top of Scotland, Lorraine's country of birth, and work our way South.  There are no fixed dates apart from the first day.  As we progress South we would slowly be getting closer to home so if anything was to go wrong, or my brain tripped out, it shouldn't be to greater a problem.

At the same time we learned more about different types of bike design.  We found a local bike shop, Transition cycles, where the actually staff listened to what we wanted to do and sorted out the kind of bicycle that would fit within our budget.

Well that was the easy bit, now we had to find the quiet route we needed.  Looking through the forums gave us a wealth of information, and well as pointing out the pitfalls of certain roads and areas that may well be best avoided.  In fact so much of what we wanted as well as needed to know had already been asked before by others.  Using the recommended road atlas for the UK, Sustrans and Google mapping we identified the back roads, lanes and even canal tow-paths we could make use of to ease our way down the country.

It all sounds simple but has taken me almost a year to complete and put marks on our map.  Quite often other things would take priority but mainly it was me, I had to back out of it all to offload my brain and clear my head.  Finally we got the marks we wanted on the map.  So we will follow these marks, visit some places on the en-route, and take time out if we need to, we will just have to see how far we get. You never know, and we certainly don't, but we may just end up at the bottom end of the country.

The one thing I did forget in all of this was to set up a blog to record the trip.  So here it is, better late than never.  We will try to update daily but as we intend to cycle tour and camp along the way power will be at a premium. If we get caught out we will update as soon as we can.