Wednesday, 31 July 2013

Lairg, Crossroads of the Highlands.



The roads into Lairg are gentle undulating.  They are ascending or descending depending on which direction one is travelling and without a contour covered map it can be difficult to perceive which way your going vertically.  The roads are 2 lane and mostly quiet but for all that some vehicles seem to pass closer than before, though that could just be people transiting the area.  There are a lot more cyclists o be seen in and around this area.  

We followed along the Loch Shin, upon which the village sits looking for the sign for the camp site.  Richard spied it and confirmed 200 yards up the hill.  200 hundred yards later and a little puzzled we stopped at the post office to seek directions, we were on the right road it was just another 100 yards to go.  That's what happens when your brain reads what it wants to see and not whats there.

We pulled into the campsite by mid afternoon and had the tent up quickly. This site has an abundance of wildlife for all to see.  There is constant activity from the flock of Swifts darting back and forth, the field next door fairly simmers with cabbage white butterflies, and once or twice a day a Bird of prey can be seen over the ridge.  First time I was not ready with the camera.



We then did an exploration  of the site.  Small and compact but without feeling cramped.  We decided to eat at the restaurant that night and found the food to be good.  Like most places up this far a lot of eating houses source their food from local farms, butchers and shops, giving the food a distinctive flavour.  It does mean the food is cooked to order and you just have to be patient but the wait is worth it.  Later investigation soon uncovered the popularity of this restaurant, The camp shop doing little in the way of food and the local shops between 300 & 600 yards away, people are not prepared to carry shopping up the hill.   

The following day broke with a light mist that the sun soon broke through.  At one point Richard saw what can only be described as a albino rainbow.  We took a picture, hope the event comes across.




 We set off to find out about the area.  the first port of call was to visit the 'Ferrycroft' centre.  This acts as a tourist information centre for visitors and is well worth the visit.  Giving account of the area since Mesolithic times, when people had first been recorded in the area right up to the present day.  They have laid out guided walks to visit the many cairns and other structures on the Ord. 






Loch Shin itself is over 21 miles in length, which makes it one of the longest lakes in Western Europe.  This was split into the upper & lower Shin when a hydroelectric plant was built.  This structure, however does not contain the grace of previous Victorian like facades but is very utilitarian, the kind of thing one might have expected from 1950's Soviet buildings.  It comes as quite a shock as it jars with the landscape.



Along the village road, for those that look, is the memorial to the war dead.  This monument takes pride of place, having a space carved out of the hillside, along with steps.  It is in the form of a broken column draped with a cloth to represent the broken lifeline of servicemen.  There for those who know and those who see and is in complete contrast to the damming structure in the Loch.


As you progress along the Loch shore line, around Lairg you can find 'The Pier cafe', another gem serving  local produce and worth the stop.  Indeed many travellers do take the opportunity here.  Although for pier read 'very short concrete jetty'...



Sunday was planned as a domestic day, to get laundry and bike maintenance done.  It didn't take long for the rain to start, sometimes heavy, sometimes light but it seemed to be there all the time.  But to much joy not only was the bird of prey back but came with it's mate.  Wheeling and playing across the ridge line.  So here's an obligatory shot of 2 black spots on sky background.



Culinary skill level: Reheat canned food. (eat your heart out...) 


Our progress through Scotland is very slow but we would not have it any other way, there is so much to see and experience and we don't want to miss any of it.





1 comment:

  1. And, here I thougth you two were making great time across Scotland, given all that you are doing and seeing. This is the best way to see so much - and learn so much!

    You are absolutely right about that dam. Here you have the lovely war memorial, then THAT thing. It's pretty much a monstrosity in the middle of gorgeous country. What a shame.

    Hey, you GOT the birds - be proud! Anything more would require very expensive equipment. ;)

    Keep enjoy it all! And, as always, safe journeys!

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