The Remote Highlands.

Finally found a WiFi we can use.

Today marks our final day on the Northern coast of Scotland.

On Tuesday we went to explore to the West of Thurso.  Now you would have thought we learnt our lesson about following the quiet routes but no, we decided to follow the route out of Thurso.  Surprisingly, and to our benefit this time the route was not only quiet but most of the gradients were reasonable.  As Thurso is a river town the only way out is to climb.  Unlike Mondays this stretch of the road is two lane and most vehicles gave ample clearence as we built up a glow.

We passed the savage sheep of the highlands, well penned in their fields, and a few cattle.  Unfortunately we were enjoying our selves too much to think of getting the camera out early.

We made our way along passing a few houses with something nagging the brain. it then dawned that apart from farms there were very few houses with any sign of habitation about them and we considered this as we progressed.

Along the way richard was aware of a visual marker that he was anticipating to appear from behind one of the many ridges that were everywhere.  This was the Dounreay neuclear power plant that was running in 1957 but now in the process of being decommissioned.  It took a while but came into sight at about ten miles.  Time for camera.

As we joined the main road and continued westwards through the villiage of Reay, looking for a coffee stop but to no avail.  There is a general store but not much else.  Further along we called a halt, and not before time, for our own brew.  While there we met a man called Derek who was walking along Britain for charity.  We had a short chat and signed his book, along with where we met him.  Possible to act as proof of his location.  After A climb up a fairly steep gradient we took stock of our position and the weather and made back along the main coast road.  This proved to have some interesting gradients, as well as one seeming never ending hill where every time we reached the peak we could see the true peak several hundred yards ahead.  Time for more tea and supplies.  We got back to Thurso and found accomaadation but lost all signals, both 3G & WiFi !

The following day we decided to explore our host town.  Taking in the local museum, and walking along the cliff top, and down to the sea edge where possible.  The main geology around here is called Caithness paving, a sedimentary rock laid down in the Devonian period (a bit before Jurrasic park).  With the folds in the Earth it lays at a slight angle and is of such strength it is used for many things, even being exported across the world.  The resurgence in it's use has been welcomed as a small but helpful part in employment.

Also of note was just how clean and clear the seawater appeared to be even to a depth of 3 feet.

Much use has been made locally of this stone and even memorial benches are dotted along the cliff top for weary feet.

Today we took a visit to Wick.  This is the other major town 'up North' but lying on the Eastern coast below John O'Groats.  This is a more visited town, as it lies at the end of the rail line and contains an international airfield.  Surprisingly then it seems smaller to walk around.  We found a local town museum that explained a lot about this place.  Most of it's wealth had been created on the herring fleets that would land fish during the good times but like most other fishing towns on the East coast it went into decline when the Herrings became harder to find.  Only a few boats now operate and that for crabbing scallops.  The authorities have tried to keep up with this by turning the harbour into something of a marina to attract the wealthier clients to town.

Tomorrow we'll head South towards Loch Shin and the Dornoch Firth area where, hopefully, there will be the kind of civilisation that has signals...

To sum up our time here  in the most Northerly part of Britain.  Where you can experience all four seasons in the space of a couple of hours, we found the most amazing scenery from desolate and remote to jaw droppingly beautiful.

The people here  welcome you like old friends and nothing is to much trouble, most of this area depends heavily on tourisim to make a living. It seems there are many elderly quite wealthy folks here along side a generation with young families that struggle to find employment, no money to get on or get out and appear at a standstill. What future for the young children will be here I do not know, how many of them will leave for college and university never to return is sad indeed.

I hope that some other industry can come to this area to reinvigorate the working population and give them some hope for the future.

A truly magical place to visit but great empathy for the population who live here all year round struggling to make a living once the tourist has left at the end of the season.